While mice can be a problem, rats are the stuff of nightmares. Many people are on a seemingly neverending search for the best rat bait. Whether you’re opting for a rat-proof garden or want to keep rodents out of your home, it’s a constant need.
Table of Contents
It’s not an easy process to pick the right one. It depends in part on the type of rat, and in part on what other methods you’re using. Most people use baits in conjunction with rat traps. Depending on the type of trap, different baits may be needed.
Let’s cut through the mystique of this rodent-removal option. We’ll discuss what types of bait there are. While I’m not going to go deep into the types of traps here, the bait is what lures them in. So let’s figure out what the best rat bait for your needs will be!
Bait Boxes To Use With Your Bait:
5 Best Rat Bait Options
Every trap and every person’s needs will vary, which makes a list of this sort complex. Because of this, I chose common and effective options which are a good overall example of their type.
In the end, there may be no “perfect” rat bait choice for all rats in all situations. But I hope that the following list will help you make the best choice for your specific needs!
1. JT Eaton Bait Block Anticoagulant Bait
Dry bait blocks are an industry standard. They fit well in traps, and they’re a good size to tuck into small spaces.
- Effectively attracts and eliminates small rodents…Contains active ingredient diphacinone…Fits in most bait stations
This particular bait is pressed together using wax as a filling agent. The wax is often scented, with peanut butter or apple being the most popular varieties. That scent lures the rodents in.
Once hooked, it takes very little of this poison to do its job. While it’s still best to trap while using bait like this, it works with or without the trap. The rat won’t know what hit it!
If you’re not sure which type of rats you’re dealing with, opt for the peanut butter flavor as it works for both. People who have roof rats will have a good effect with the apple flavor.
2. Just One Bite II Bars
Just One Bite’s name implies that it’s as simple as getting the rat to take a single bite. In reality, it might take two or three nibbles for a rat, maybe one for a mouse. One of the strongest poison doses on the market, it’s incredibly effective.
- Norway rats, roof rats and house mice may consume…Death is delayed 4 to 5 days, so there’s no bait…Kills warfarin resistant Norway rats
The drawbacks of a bar poison usually arise in breaking it apart, and this one’s no different in that. The bar is a one-pound bar that’s indented at the breakpoints. It’s a little tough to break, despite the indenting. As it’s a potent poison, wear gloves and a mask when breaking it.
But despite that issue, it tends to be extremely effective. It has a peanut butter aroma, making it a draw for most rat species. Due to its potency, I recommend using this one only inside an enclosed trap. Don’t leave it anywhere the pets can get at it.
3. Tomcat Rat And Mouse Bait Pellet
With some forms of poison, a low dosage is best. This keeps your rats coming back time and again to eat the bait. It also means they’ll take it home and feed it to their young, eliminating the whole rat nest.
- Kills Norway rats roof rats and house miceEconomical controlMultiple feed
And that’s how Tomcat works. This pelletized bait is appetizing to rats, mice, and most other small rodents. In fact, many users warn that if the scent of the bait’s on the outside of the bucket, rodents chew their way into it!
It is an anticoagulant poison that is administered with each pellet eaten. This thins the rat’s blood out gradually. In time, any slight bump or bruise will turn into a potential internal bleeding situation. The rat will never suspect the bait.
The manufacturers claim that it works on both Norway and roof rats. I’ve heard no reports to the contrary, and in my experience, it works well on the rodents I’ve dealt with. It’s also effective when blended with normal food baits.
4. Bell Labs Provoke Professional Rat Attractant
Provoke is a poison-free rat bait, so you definitely need to use a trap with it. Having said that, if you want to go with an option that’s really easy to apply, you can’t beat this stuff.
- Special formulation for RatsCompletely non toxic
Formulated to provide a mix of scents that appeal to both Norway rats and roof rats, this gel bait is easy to store. Keep it tucked away in your toolbox until you need it.
One of the best perks about Provoke is that because it’s completely non-toxic, it’s safe around pets. If you opt for a trap that requires the rat to enter, you’ll never have an issue. Just be wary of using snap traps around your pets – the last thing you want is your dog’s tongue getting stuck in a trap!
5. JT Eaton Top Gun Bait Block
Very similar to JT Eaton’s other bait block, this one uses a different active ingredient. The neurotoxin bromethalin provides a lethal dose to most rodents within 24-36 hours. Bromethalin is also more reliable in unfavorable weather conditions, making it a good choice for all-weather use.
- Neurological Bait Which Works On Both Mice And…128-Blocks With An Average Time Of Death Of…Rodents Cease Feeding After Consuming A Deadly…
I recommend extreme caution when dealing with a neurotoxin like this. This particular one is also toxic to dogs and cats, so you definitely want to keep this away from your pets. Use a locking bait station to ensure only the rodents can access it!
Rat Bait Stations
Rat Bait Station 2 Pack – Rodent Bait Station with Key
When you’re using rat bait, as I’ve said throughout this piece, you should pair it with a rat trap. This bait station is just the thing. The entire top comes off to allow you to put poisoned bait inside. A key prevents the top from being removed by kids or pets.
- Rat traps that work - Tamper resistant- double key…Easy Installation - Vertical and Horizontal rods…Pet Friendly - Lock-able station is safe for pets…
While this trap will not kill the rodents directly, it does other important tasks. It keeps the baits protected from the elements so they won’t dissolve in the rain. It provides a place for the rat to die, making carcass disposal easy. And, of course, it keeps your children and pets from harm’s way.
This particular design can be used with any bait type, but for efficacy, you will need poisoned bait. Otherwise, you’re setting up a rat feeding station!
Tomcat Rat and Mouse Killer Child and Dog Resistant Refillable Station
Made for use with Tomcat’s bait blocks, this bait station does much the same as the other type I described. However, it does not have a locking top. Instead, there is a window in the top which makes it easy to check and see if your bait’s been nibbled on.
- Effectively kills rats and mice while protecting…Each bait block kills up to 3 rats (based on…Weather and tamper proof from any child or dog in…
This can be used with other forms of bait as well but works best with a block-type bait. Bars are a little more difficult to break to size, and most gels are attractants rather than poisons.
What Makes Rat Bait Effective?
On their own, rat baits are only a partial solution to a greater problem.
The best rat bait can kill a rat, sure, but it may take time to do it. All baits rely on the rat eating them. If too little is consumed, the bait may not be effective on its own.
Bait can also be used to entice a rodent into a trap. Whether you opt for humane traps or deadly ones, traps tend to be more effective overall than the bait alone.
So there are two things which make the bait effective: attractiveness and utility.
If your goal is to lure rats into a trap, commercial baits may not be as efficient as bits of food. Things that are easily identified by the rat as food will draw them in, making it easier to trap them.
For standalone bait, it needs to draw the rat’s interest while also poisoning them. That’s more complex and may require a bit of creativity in use.
Different Rat Types, Different Baits
The type of rat you’re dealing with will also come into play. Different rats like different bait types.
In the United States, there are two types of common rats.
Norway rats, sometimes called sewer rats or brown rats, tend to be ground-dwellers. These are large rats, often grey or grey-brown in coloration, and are common in gardens and yards. They may also take shelter in building foundations or the lower part of the walls.
Roof rats are the other variety most commonly found. These tend to prefer the advantages of living at a height, and dwell in trees in the wild. Attics, the upper portions of walls, tops of cabinetry, and the like are common places. They are smaller in size than Norway rats and often like warmer climates. These are sometimes called black rats.
With Norway rats, meats are surprisingly common as bait materials. A scrap of bacon or slice of sausage provides a protein-packed punch that they enjoy. They’re not picky and will accept human food readily.
Roof rats tend to prefer foods that they’d find in the wild. Berries or fruit, snails or worms, and nuts are useful as lures. Things that mimic natural food sources for them are best.
Determining the type of rat may have an impact on your eventual bait type. After all, you can set out a bait intended to catch one type, but if you have the other, it may not work!
Types of Rat Bait
Finding the best rat bait can be complex. There are many different forms in which rat baits are sold. Between bricks or cubes, gels or pellets, it can be baffling. So let’s go over the pros and cons of each type and find out what will be best for you.
Blocks and Bars
Pressed into a block or a bar, these baits often include potent anticoagulants. These anticoagulants cause internal bleeding, which results in the rodent’s demise. They can also contain neurotoxins which will kill off the rodent within 24-36 hours.
The biggest problem with this type of bait is that the blocks or bars often have an appealing scent. Yes, that makes them effective, especially as it’s food scents that the rats like! But the drawback is that it may also be appealing to your pet dog or child.
With this sort of bait, you will need to seal off or remove any other sources of food before use. It may take more than one nibble for this poison to take effect. Having any other potential food around will counteract the bait’s use.
Pelletized Bait
Like a block or bar bait, pelletized baits often have anticoagulants. These smaller-sized pieces remove the need for cutting or breaking bars. They’re much easier to place.
These are best if you have a mouse problem as well as a rat problem. The smaller size makes it accessible to little rodents as well as large ones.
While these aren’t food-scented, they still seem to draw the rats in. To get the right dosage, they’ll need to eat more than one pellet. They’re still effective and useful.
Gel Bait
Gel baits are easily dispensed from a bottle or tube, and less likely to attract pets as if they were a treat. However, these sticky gels tend to be optimized to one type of rat or the other, not both.
With a gel bait, again clear any potential food sources out of the area so the rats can be lured in. They’re best when used in conjunction with a rat trap.
Some gel baits include a rodenticide, others are poison-free. I’ve found that the poison-free ones seem to work the best for trapping. These gel baits are also referred to as attractants.
Other Baits
The most effective baits are things which rodents will already eat… and that means food!
Norway rats tend to be protein and fat-loving creatures. They will accept baits made of meat products as readily as those made with nuts or sweet ones. Good baits for these rats include bits of bacon or chocolate, dried fruit, peanut butter, or soft candy.
By contrast, roof rats often are mostly vegetarian. Our meat scraps won’t lure them, but peanut butter, nuts or dried fruit certainly do. If you have snail shells, those can also draw them in as that’s one of the few animal products they’ll eat.
I find that peanut butter or dried apple slices work best as bait. But remember, your food scraps are not poisoned. These have to be paired with the use of a rat trap. And these other baits are likely to attract squirrels, chipmunks, or other creatures as well.
Is It Safe To Use Rat Bait Around My Pets?
The short answer to this is no, at least if you’re using poisoned baits. Non-poisoned rat baits are much safer.
There’s a few different chemical types that are used in rat baits. The majority of those on the market in the United States are anticoagulant baits. These cause internal bleeding and other issues.
Even if your pet does not directly eat the poison, they might be tempted to eat a dead rat if they find it. And that poses a distinct risk, as the dead rat is now poisoned as well.
If you have pets or small children, it’s much safer to use non-poisoned baits in conjunction with traps. This ensures that even if your child or pet touches or eats the bait, they should be okay.
In some cases, out-of-reach baits on high shelves may be an option. This is especially true for black rats since they like heights. Those should be safer to use with dogs or small children. Cats may still be able to get to them.
If your children or pets ever eat a poisoned bait or a dead rat that’s eaten the bait, it’s an emergency. Immediately contact your doctor’s office or veterinary hospital, and let them know the poison brand you use. Most of the anticoagulants can be reversed with prescription-strength Vitamin K.
Do you have rabbits or hamsters as pets? If so, avoid poisoned baits entirely. These pets are small enough that rat bait is very dangerous to them, and they may suffer extreme symptoms before you can get them to the vet.
No matter if it’s roach bait, mouse bait, or rat bait, these poisoned baits are not without dangers. Be mindful of your placement!
How To Use Rat Bait
Using rat bait is going to vary depending on the form of bait that you’re using. It’s always best to use bait in conjunction with a rat or mousetrap. That way, you don’t end up with decomposing rats in unusual places!
I’ve discussed at length the various types of mouse traps before, and rat traps are very similar. There are humane traps that imprison the living rat. Snap traps will catch the rodent, crushing some bones in the process. Electronic traps deliver a shock to the rat, killing it fast and without lingering pain.
Each type of trap needs to have its bait placed in a different fashion. I find that the most effective rat baits appeal to the rat’s hunger in a way that entices them into the trap.
Before you can trap them, you’ll need to familiarize your local rodents with where the food can be found. I recommend setting up but not activating the trap for a period of time first. Bait it, but don’t set it to go off when entered. You may also wish to place bait just outside the trap entrance to draw them in.
Naturally skittish creatures, rats will run away if something scares them. If they become familiarized with the trap as a non-harmful thing, they’ll be more likely to walk in.
When using a brick or bar bait, you may need to break it into smaller segments. Do this while wearing a pair of disposable gloves so you don’t come in contact with the poison. Be sure to clean up any residue that results from cutting the brick or bar.
With pelletized baits, your biggest difficulty is that they are cylindrical. If you’re using a snap trap, they’ll roll right off the activation plate. I like to use a dab of peanut butter to stick the pellet in place.
Gel baits are very easy to apply. Squeeze the tube, and the gel comes right out! They may not work on all rats, but those who do take the bait also seem to tell their friends.
If you’re opting for normal human food, whether fruits or nuts or bacon bits, it can be easier. The smear of peanut butter may still help you to “glue” your bait to the activation point of the trap.
Place your baited traps in areas where you have seen rat droppings. This is usually a good sign that it’s a commonly-used rat travel zone. Placing your traps in active locations gives the highest chance of catching them.
Finally, leave the bait and traps alone during the hours when the rats are most active. For most people, this will be easy. Many rats tend towards nocturnal behavior for their safety.
If you’re using a humane trap, check it every couple days, and avoid poisoned baits. Remember that releasing them back in the wild must be done in an area where it’s permissible.
With zap traps or snap traps, you may want to check daily but can wait for up to a couple of days. Some traps are obviously triggered, where others can be more difficult to check. Be cautious while checking your trap. Rats that are still alive may bite!
In the end, the best rat bait really depends on the rats you’re dealing with. But I hope I’ve given you a few solutions that will help you to solve your rodent-reduction needs!
